M40間諜米格魯的秘密日誌

一直以來，網路上以訛傳訛的東西很多，就好像究竟如何搭乘公共交通工具從 Selcuk 到 Izmir 機場，也是衆說紛紜，其實老實說一句，從 Selcuk 到 Izmir 機場，方法很多，但是百分之95以上的台灣背包客，只用過其中一 種，所以他們的意見最多就是當做參考用，不要把他們說的交通方式當成是唯一絕對正確的方式。

最方便而且最便宜的方式，就是：

1. 搭乘 Atlasjet 的班機從 Izmir 機場到 Istanbul. 這麼一來，你就有權利乘搭 Atlasjet 提供的免費接駁巴士從 Selcuk 市中心直接出發到 Izmir 機場的國内線航站門口。

目前土耳其國内，有以下幾間廉價航空公司：

A) 從伊斯坦堡 Ataturk 機場起飛的有：

1. Atlasjet    http://www.atlasjet.com

這是一間相當不錯的航空公司，主要股東是土耳其旅遊業知名公司 ETS Tur. 雖然國内航線不多， 但他們有提供從 Istanbul Ataturk 機場（IST) 直飛 Izmir, Antalya, Dalaman, Bodrum, Adana, 北塞普路斯的 Lefkosa, 以及伊拉克北部庫爾德族自治區的 Erbil, Sulemaniye 等城市。

常常三不五時就會有人在旅遊論壇上問：請問土耳其那幾間巴士公司比較好？有那幾間是值得推薦的？
每次看到這種問題，就很想搖頭。爲什麽？因爲問這種問題，並沒有太大的意義。老實說，就算我列出‘土耳其前十大巴士公司排行榜’，並且每個月更新一次，對普通自助旅行的外籍遊客還是沒有什麽太大的幫助。

爲什麽會沒有太大的幫助呢？原因很簡單：

大多數的土耳其旅行指南很少詳細的描述如何用公共交通工具從各城市的機場到市區;其實土耳其境內大多數的機場都有公共交通工具可以到達,但是這些交通資訊通常都只用土耳其文書寫,所以看不懂土耳其文的人會以為公共交通工具根本不存在,只好乖乖的花錢坐計程車到市區.

以下是我根據個人經驗做出的土耳其機場公共交通工具指南整理:

a.Izmir 機場到市區之公共交通工具

- Havas Bus 機場巴士: 有機場到 Alsancak,機場到 Karsiyaka - Mavisehir, 與機場到 Izmir Otogar 三條路線

- ESHOT 公共巴士

Turkey's national carrier, Turkish Airlines, will operate a direct flight from Izmir to Athens, thus saving all travellers the need to fly via Istanbul.

TK 1844 Izmir - Athens will depart Izmir's Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) every Monday, Wednedsday, Thursday and Saturday at 06:00, arriving at Athens International Airport at 07:00 local time. There is no time difference between Izmir and Athens.

TK 1843 Athens - Izmir will depart Athens International Airport (ATH) every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday at 23:20, arriving at Izmir's ADB airport at 00:20.

There are several hundred bus companies in the whole of Turkey, serving both major cities and small villages throughout the country. Many foreign visitors who speak little or no Turkish, however, find it intimidating to venture around this beautiful country by bus due to language barriers, despite the presence of a highly comprehensive and efficient long-distance bus systems.

Unlike in Greece, where several private travel agencies compile comprehensive database that provide up-to-date sailing schedules and ticket price of most domestic ferry routes, there are no such thing yet for inter-city bus routes in Turkey. Which means: the only way independent travellers who speak no Turkish can obtain up-to-date bus time-tables and prices is to check with the bus ticket office in person upon arrival at the bus station (known as Otogar, Terminali, or Garaj in Turkish) in Turkey, and hope to find a bus connection that meets their schedule,

It seems there is a long-standing problem that foreign tourists visiting Goreme for the first time tend to be dropped off prematurely at Nevsehir bus station, although their ticket stated clearly that their final destination should be Goreme...

To be honest, it is not easy to tell when you board the bus in Istanbul or Ankara whether the bus will stop at Goreme station en route to Nevsehir, or it really by-passes Goreme and go directly to Nevsehir.

It is probably easier if one simply buys a ticket from Istanbul or Ankara to Kayseri instead, then change bus at Kayseri's huge bus station to Goreme. In this case, there is no danger of one being dumped at Nevsehir because the Istanbul-Kayseri or Ankara-Kayseri buses DO NOT go via Nevsehir. Hence you can be sure you won't be dropped off prematurely.

However, if one insists on taking one of those so-called 'direct' buses serving Istanbul/Ankara - Goreme, and finds himself indeed being told to get off at Nevsehir, be calm. There are a few possibilities:

1. The so-called 'direct' bus is actually not a direct service at all, but all passengers - Turkish or foreign - are required to get off at Nevsehir and change to a free shuttle service (so-called service bus, usually operated by the same bus comapny using mini-vans). If everybody (including all Turkish passengers) gets off the big bus, observe their movements. Normally 2 or 3 small vans operating the free shuttle service will appear almost immediately. One of those mini-vans heads to Urgup, another to Goreme. Ask which one goes to Urgup and which one goes to Goreme. These shuttle services are free and there is no need to pay anything extra for the bus.

2. If there are still passengers remaining on the bus, you can reasonably suspect that Nevsehir is not the final destination of this bus.

See the white mini vans in the photo? These are the free shuttle service that ferry passengers from Nevsehir bus station to Urgup and Goreme.

For those of you who have never been to either Goreme or Nevsehir before, but holds a ticket which stated that your final destination is Goreme, it is important to know how Nevsehir's bus station looks like, in case you are told by bus driver and attendant to get off prematurely at Nevsehir:

Front view of Nevsehir's bus station (Otogar/Terminali). If you are supposed to go to Goreme on a 'direct' bus, this place is not your final destination.

Here are some latest reviews of bus companies serving some of the more popular routes frequented by tourists visiting Turkey:

A) Istanbul - Ankara: Kamil Koc

At least a dozen companies serve this route and competition is fierce; in Dec 2008 I travelled from Istanbul to Ankara with one of my favourite Turkish bus companies, Kamil Koc. The journey took 6 hours and cost 40YTL. The price is about 5-10YTL more expensive than other bus companies; I tried to negotiate for some discounts, but to no avail: because the bus used for that particular departure is more up-market and spacious than ordinary buses; instead of the usual 2-2 seating arrangement, this particular bus adopts a 1-2 seating configuration. As a result, there are more legrooms and space between each seat, and it makes the journey much more comfortable. In addition, wireless internet is available on the bus if you have your own laptop with you, which allows passengers to surf the web during the journey. The in-journey snack service offers more options than what are otherwise available: cheese sandwiches, a wide selection of pastries and snacks as well as several kinds of fruit juice and other beverages. 

在土耳其買巴士車票,如果想買到便宜一點的價錢,最好是自己去車站售票處買票.因為:

A.在車站售票處,你可以同時比較多間不同巴士公司的價格;如有需要可見機殺價.

B.通常向民宿或者旅行社買巴士車票,價錢會比較昂貴,因為他們所報給你的價錢,都會另外加上一筆佣金.如果你直接向你車站售票處買,因為他們不需要支付佣金給任何的人的原故,價錢自然地會有較多論價空間.

有許多棧友對購買希臘船票,查詢船班時間表等等事務, 有一些程序上的疑問.

以下是我根據自己在希臘不同的地區,不同的月份,購買船票的經驗,針對一些買票訂票時較常見的問題,提供一些建議:

查詢船班時間表:

一般說來, 船班時間表在離出發日期大約一兩個月前會正式公布並開始開放訂位購票.

但是在淡季(一月到五月底, 以及十月到十二月), 有時船班時間表會在離出發日期大約一兩個星期前才正式公布,並且輸入電腦售票系統裡面供人訂購. 因此有時會有四月查不到六月的船班時間的情況,或者查到了班次但是無法網上購票等等.這是很正常的現象,不需要太過緊張.

希臘船班路線,每個月都會變更,五月有開的路線,不一定七月也會有.在這種情況下,最好的方法就是直接聯絡出發港口所在地的船公司或者其總代理,詢問訂票購票詳情.

預訂/購買船票:

一般說來,從A點到B點的船票通常在出發前二三天找當地任何一間代理旅行社購買就可以,不必要特地在海外提前訂購.

我自己本身也都是到了一個小島之後, 再購買到下一個目的地的船票, 因為:

A)有時船班會因天氣因素而突然取消或者嚴重誤點–如果已經在海外就買了票,有可能就無法隨機應變,搭乘任何不同的船公司的船班離開.如果想臨時更改行程, 在某一個小島多逗留 幾天也不行.

B)可以省下一筆相當可觀的預訂手續費 (注意:在希臘旅行社買船票是不用付手續費的,當場買,船票上的價錢印多少就付多少,千萬別被騙了)

C)小島上的旅行社,代理的船班和雅典那裡的旅行社所代理的可能不盡相同.意思就是說,有一些航程的船票,只有在出發地才買得到.其他的地方的旅行社的電腦售票系統可能看得到班次,但是無法販售船票.

有一次我在Kalymnos要買到Rhodes的船票時,明明查詢網站如

http://www.gtp.gr

http://www.ferries.gr

以及

http://www.greekferries.gr

等等都顯示有船班,但是就是無法網上訂位-售票系統的資訊總是顯示所有的位置已經售完.但是當我在Kalymnos詢問船票時,空位子一大堆,整船大約只有六成滿.原因其實很簡單:因為這些查詢網站不是航行Kalymnos– Rhodes 的那間船公司的授權代理業者,因此無法售票.

同樣的道理,有許多航行在小島之間的船班,不是由大型的船公司,而是由私人漁船或者較小的船改裝而成的渡輪.這些私人的渡輪,大多只在旺季行駛,其船票是無法在查詢網站或者其他的地方的旅行社買到的.通常我到了一個小島之後, 就會發現其實可供選擇的班次,遠比在其他地方所能查詢到的航班要來得太多了.

舉例來說,從Rhodes到Kastelorizo的許多私人船班,以及從Kalymnos到Mastichari,Kastelorizo到Kas的船班,Rhodes到Nissyros etc. 就是屬於這種網上查不到,但是的確存在的航班. 許多的外來訪客可能會因為在查詢網站或者其他的地方的旅行社查不到有關這些航班的消息,誤以為這些航段沒有渡輪來往而選擇更改行程或取消拜訪這些地方的念頭, 那就太可惜了.

渡輪種類:

希臘的渡輪分為以下幾種:

A) Car Ferry: 載客+客車+貨車,通常臨時買票不是問題.

B) Catamaran: 新一代的快船, 有一些可載客,再加上數目有限的車輛(長寬高都有限制); 有些則只載客, 不載車輛. 因為座位數目有限, 旺季時最好早二三天訂購. Hellenic Seaways有幾艘新設計的快船,可乘載的乘客與車輛數目不輸一般的傳統 Car Ferry.

C) Hydrofoil:高速飛船, 只載客, 不載車輛.因為座位數目有限, 旺季時最好早二三天訂購.

D) Caique:小漁船改裝而成的渡輪,只載客, 不載車輛.

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http://www.openseas.gr/OPENSEAS/index_en.vm

與其他的希臘渡輪網站所不同的是,這裡不止可以查到A 點到 B點的航班時間,也可以查到所有從A 點出發的航班.

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最常使用的船公司網站 - 直接網上訂購,出發港口所在地代理旅行社取票,無手續費: 

Hellenic Seaways

主要路線: Crete - Santorini - Paros - Mykonos; (summer only service)

              Rafina - Paros - Naxos - Mykonos;

              Piraeus - Syros - Paros - Naxos - Mykonos;

              Piraeus - Santorini;

              Piraeus - Syros - Karlovassi (Samos)- Vathi (Samos);

                      -----> daily in summer months, only once a week in winter

              Piraeus - Chios - Lesbos;

              Piraeus/Rafina - Saronic Gulf (Aegina, Hydras, Poros et al) and Sporades Islands

2009 年度夏季新路線: Piraeus - Syros - Mykonos - Chios - Mytilini (Lesvos)

http://www.hellenicseaways.gr/index.asp?a_id=209