M40間諜米格魯的秘密日誌

Bozcaada - this small island plays an interesting role in the geopolitics of Northern Aegean. One of the two bigger Turkish islands in the Aegean, Bozcaada is located off the coast of Turkey, near the strategic point of entry to the Dardanelle and the Sea of Marmara.
Bozcaada - still known in Greece by its Greek name of Tenedos - was already under Greek rule when the First World War broke out in 1914. However, in the aftermath of Greece's defeat by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk's Turkish republican army in 1922, the island of Bozcaada and Gokceada (Greek name=Imbros, just off the western coast of Gallibolu Peninsula) were handed over to Turkey as part of the peace settlements. Under the conditions set out in the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, Greek-speaking residents of Tenedos and Imbros were exempted from the compulsory population exchange that had affected millions of people all over Greek Asia Minor and the eastern Aegean.

Because of the island's strategic location, a castle and fort had been constructed by the Venetians who held the island prior to the arrival of the Ottomans to ensure the control of shipping movements in and out of the Dardanelles. For a brief spell during Greece's War of Independence, Bozcaada was 'liberated' by the Greek army prior to its return to Turkish control in 1923.
The Venetian Castle of Bozcaada is also the island's most famous landmark. There are still some Greek-speaking citizens of Turkey on Bozcaada, although their numbers have decreased dramatically since the 1960s. Most of them have left for Australia or return to Greece. Those who chose to remain are usually older people.

Due to Bozcaada's Greek heritage, there are many pretty old houses in the town centre with a Greek touch. This one is the Ege Hotel, which used to be a Greek primary school.

A quiet side street in the biggest village of Bozcaada - with traditional pebble stone street and blue-and-white exteriors. Note the presence of grapevines all over the corner: wine-growing is one of the most important economic activities on Bozcaada. Viticulture on Bozcaada dates back thousands of years. There are some indigenous grape varietals that are grown exclusively on Bozcaada. Most of the wine farmers and vineyard owners are of Greek heritage. However, the survival of the wine industry on Bozcaada has come under serious threat due to the devastating high consumption taxes imposed on wines and alcohols by the current Turkish government. As Turkey is not yet a member state of the EU, wine farmers on Bozcaada are not entitled to any subsidies or state compensation.

Outside the tasting room of Talat. This is one of the most well-known wine makers in Turkey. They produce some very unusual and interesting red wines, made from rare varietals unavailable elsewhere in the world, such as Karalahna, Karasakiz, Vasilaki, Kalecikkarasi, Sidalan, et al. Believe it or not, legend has it that during the 10 year siege of Troy by the Greek armies, the wines drank by the Greek soldiers fighting in Anatolia were supplied by Bozcaada.

Copyright 2008. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.