M40間諜米格魯的秘密日誌

Since the early Middle Ages, countless devoted pilgrims from all over Europe walked all the way from the Franco-Spanish border  at the Pyrennes to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia to pay homage to the relics of St. James the Great, housed in the magnificent Cathedral in the centre of Santiago's old town. These pilgrims will stop en route at Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, before finally arriving at the steps of the Cathedral after a long and ardous route. They will carry in their possession a staff, with a Galician scallop shell (the symbol of St. James) and a document known as 'credencial' (Pilgrim's Passport), to be stamped at every town on the route where they had stayed overnight. The stamps collected in this document serve as proof that the said pilgrim has indeed completed the pilgrimage according to an officially approved route (i.e. Camino de Santiago or St. James' Way) and is entitled to an official certificate of pilgrimage upon arrival at Santiago de Compostela.
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
There are several official ways, depending on where the pilgrims embark on their journey. The most common one is the Pyrennes - Pamplona - Burgos - Leon - Santiago way. Since we did not walk to Santiago (we drove there with a rental car), we were not considered true pilgrims (driving is not an approved method of completing a pilgrimage), just ordinary tourists. 

Pamplona is an ideal destination for a day-trip if you happen to find yourself in La Rioja. Famed for its annual encierro (Running of the Bulls) every year during the San Fermin festival, Pamplona is a very popular destination for tourists from all over the world.
The drive from Ezcaray to Pamplona passes through some scenic little towns and villages in both the La Rioja and the Navarre province. As the old town of Pamplona, with all the little winding alleys and one-way streets, is best explored by foot, it is advisable to park the car at one of the underground car parks on the outskirt of the old town and walk into the old centre.
All over the route of the annual encierro, you will see red signs like this one above the street corners. Each sign explains the peculiarity of each street segment. If you follow the white arrow sign and walk from one sign board to the next, you will know how it is like to be in an encierro - except for that there are no bulls running behind you on the narrow cobble stone streets.

The good thing about renting a holiday apartment in La Rioja is, you can rent a car and explore the surrounding countrysides at your own pace. And there are several highly interesting cities for those who want some thrill and fun, all within 3-4 hours' drive from La Rioja, easily accessible thanks to Spain's great highway systems. You can choose from the likes of San Sebastian, Pamplona, Bilbao, Burgos etc. As one Spaniard puts it, 'the possibilities are endless'.
Since we already stayed overnight at Burgos on our way from Madrid to La Rioja, we opted for a full day-drive tour from Ezcaray to San Sebastian and return via Bilbao instead.

When we arrived at Ezcaray, it was already well past 2 in the afternoon. Desperate for a decent lunch, we wandered around the streets trying to find a restaurant or cafe which was still open. By sheer coincidence, we parked our car at the parking lot in front of the village cathedral, and notice an elegant stone building right across the road. To our delight, it is a restaurant which serves regional cuisine.

(See the building behind the trees? That's Hotel Restaurante Echaurren, one of the most interesting restaurants we have ever visited in Europe.)

When we planned our trip to Spain, my father said we should rent a holiday apartment at a place which fulfills all of the following requirements:
1. The town or village in which the apartment is located must be 'old' (i.e. with lots of history)
2. The town or village concerned must consist of houses and buildings made of stone (i.e. no concrete or otherwise man-made building materials)
3. The town or village which fulfills the above conditions must also have beautiful sceneries at its door steps, with plenty of nature within walking distance

Mallorca is the biggest of the Spanish Belearic Islands and a popular holiday destination for tens of millions of tourists from all over Europe and beyond. At the beginning, I was put off by the island's infamous reputation as the island of Ballermann, a satire of fat, overweight German prolet holidaymakers with beer bellies who fly to Mallorca to drink cheap beer, eat sausages and spend most of their time doing stupid things on the beach.
The thing is, Mallorca has so much to offer in terms of history, culture, food and shopping, as well as sceneries. Most working-class holidaymakers tend to cluster in resort towns on the southern and eastern parts of the island, while those who are looking for stylish refinement and natural scenic attractions will head to the more exclusive resorts in the north, such as Port de Soller, seen below:

The Lighthouse and the Bay of Port de Soller, about 5km outside of the town of Soller, famous for its Cathedral, delicious Italian galati ice-cream and excellent olive oil from the hills nearby. Another famous tourist attraction is the Tram de Soller, another antique tramway line built in the late 19th century which connects Soller town with Port de Soller, passing through orange grooves and along the seafront en route to the centre of Port de Soller.

Above: Orange Grooves near Fornalutx, about 5 km outside of the town of Soller, where some of Spain's best olive oils come from.
In order to escape the exceptionally heavy snow storm that swept through parts of Central Europe in the winter of 2006, I decided to spend a few days in the warm, sunny south. Since the flight to Palma de Mallorca left Basel airport very early in the morning, I left Zurich the night before and stayed overnight at Basel Airport.
The Hapagfly (later Tuifly) flight was a smooth one, they offered all passengers free breakfast, drinks and in-flight entertainment on a overhead screen. Upon touch down at Mallorca's International Airport, I was surprised to see how HUGE the airport buildings are: terminals almost twice the size of most international airports in Europe and at least 20 Air Berlin and other German short-haul airlines' aeroplanes standing at the gates and all over the tarmac. Later I learnt that Mallorca is Air Berlin's major hub outside of Germany.
There is a tourist information booth in the Arrival Hall and the staffs are very very friendly. I enquired about the Tren de Soller, the railway line with antique carriages and steam locomotives that runs 5 times a day between Palma de Mallorca and the town of Soller in the north, through scenic countrysides. It is also one of the Mallorca's foremost tourist attractions and is almost always full during the summer.

The famous Tren de Soller, seen here at the train station in Downtown Palma. When I enquired about the train time table, staffs at the Airport Tourist Information Centre told me the train was still not in operation due to some tunneling works under Palma's suburban railways station. Thus I decided to travel to Soller by bus instead. However, while I was on my way to the bus station, I saw the Ticket Office of the Soller Tren was open. Out of curiosity, I asked them if the train was running again and to my surprise, they said 'today is the first day the line has reopened and the next train is in 30 minutes'. Great! Immediately I ditched the idea of going by bus and bought a train ticket instead.
The ride was great. All rolling stocks and carriages are period-piece and because it was the first day, I had the whole carriage to myself. As the train slowly rolled out of Palma and into the surrounding countryside, through vineyards, olive grooves and orchards with an average speed of 50km an hour, I felt a sense of excitment all around, Everything about Mallorca feels great and intoxicating. The air is mild and filled with sweet scent of orange, while the less-than-familiar scenery outside seemed to fuel my expectation of what is to come in the next few days.

Station Cafe at the train station, Soller.
The train stopped a few times en route at some pretty little towns in the hills. As soon as it approached the station of Soller, however, I was shocked to see the whole station platform full of German-speaking middle-aged tourists eager to secure a place on the carriages, Obviously some tour operators had booked the whole train for its return leg to Palma.
The train station of Soller is a pretty piece of architecture, with a beautiful courtyard displaying contemporary arts and a classy souvernir shop where tourists can bring home some pricey pieces of Mallorca's history. The historic tramway to Port de Soller departs right outside the train station. A conductor looked out of the carriage door to ensure no car was parked on the track. Off we go to the sea!

The upmarket resort village of Soller. Thanks to the mild winter climate (it was 20 degrees Celsius during the day on Mallorca while it was -5 degrees Celsius back in Zurich! See the difference??), Soller is the preferred destination for many rich old pensioners from central and northern Europe. There are several excellent seafood restaurants serving fresh catch of the day at reasonable prices.
One thing I like about Mallorca is, in spite of the tens of millions of tourists who visit the island annually, the islanders are extremely friendly and have none of the arrogance or hype that you so often see at other popular holiday destinations such as Paris or Rome. No shopkeepers or restaurant owners who try to overcharge tourists from abroad, no unfriendly bus drivers or waiters who pretend you don't exist. Even at a posh place like Soller, everybody greets you with an unassuming smile and a 'Hola!' and  they are all eager to help you the best they can. Once when I was strolling up the hill overlooking the Bay of Soller, I entered the beautiful roof garden of an expensive-looking restaurant in order to take some photos. The owner kindly invited me to walk around, show me around to take as many photos as I liked. Such genuine hospitality would be almost impossible in Paris or Rome.

Cafe Ramon, Port de Soller,
Here you can have a good cup of coffee for less than 3 euros and enjoy the splendid view of the harbour of Soller from the balcony. There are many family-run restaurants and cafes offering great food, wonderful atmosphere and service, as well as marvellous views at reasonable prices. In the evening, you can enjoy a romantic dinner togerther accompanied by the sound of the waves splashing gently up the shore.
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Importants sights on the island of Mallorca:
A) Valldemossa

Olive grooves and hills near Valldemossa, a destination of choice among Europe's high society and elite  circles. Polish composer Frederic Chopin and his lover and feminist writer George Sand spent a few months between 1838-1839 staying at a local monastry (Royal Charthouse of Jesus of Nazareth, built from the first years of the 14th century) in order for Chopin, who suffered from tuberculosis, to escape the harsh Parisian winter. Sand's novel 'A Winter on Mallorca' describes their experience of the island.
Another prominent literary figure that spent some time in Valldemossa was the internationally renown  Argentine author, Jorge Luis Borges (1899-1986), who lived with his parents and his sister in the village after 1918.
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B) Fornalutx

About 3km east of Soller, small 12-seater buses travel between Soller and Fornalutx 3-4 times a day. The village has a nice little square and beautiful countryisde planted with citrus fruits and olives. You can walk back to Soller and get yourself a bottle of good extra virgin olive oil en route at the local farmers' cooperative shop, just outside the main street leading back to the centre of Soller.
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C) Palma de Mallorca
The capital of Mallorca is definitely worth a visit. The Cathedral itself is a magificent piece of architecture, while the myriad streets of downtown Palma offers everything you need: from excellent tapas bars, chic restaurants, haute-couture boutiques, department stores and fashionable shops selling beautiful leather handbags and shoes and accessories, to little family run stores stocked with local produces such as honey, preserves and tasty hams. Palma also has one of the prettiest town centres in the whole of Spain - it reminds me so much of Barcelona.
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Copyrights 2006,2008. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.

I admit I am a shopping fanatic. Every year, during the anuual winter sales and the summer sales, I have to spend a few days in one of Europe's top shopping destinations and splash out a fortune on designer coats, sweaters, shoes and handbags etc.
In contrast to most shopping addicts, I actually do not do my designer wears shoppings at one of the established fashion capital of the world, such as Paris, London or Milan. My favourite destination for spending money is the Spanish capital, Madrid. The reasons why I prefer Madrid to most other cities in Europe when it comes to designer goods shopping are:
a) Madrid has always been my favourite city with or without shopping
b) All the designers and brand names I fancy have flagship stores or boutiques in Madrid and they have my size (not easy to come by in other European cities given my 'petite' size)
c) The weather is almost always good and sunny in Madrid, even in winter - it's such a turn-off if you have to do shoppings in pouring rain or amid heavy snowfall
d)  Prices of decent hotel accommodation are very affordable - I don't want to spend more than 50 euro on my hotel room when I spend almost 20 hours per day outside running from one boutique to another.
e) Overseas visitors from outside the EU are entitled to tax refund as soon as purchase 91 euros or more in one store - an easy to attain target given that any designer handbags will cost at least 100 euro, Unlike Italy, where you have to purchase 130 euros or more at a shop, or worse still France, where you need to buy more than 172 euros in one shop before you are allowed to claim your VAT back, Spain are a good bargain indeed.
Calle Serrano - Madrid's No. 1 Shopping Street and one of the most upmarket districts of the Spanish capital, where some of the world's most exclusive labels and brands can be found.
Thus a shopping pilgrimage to Madrid has become an annual fixture in my calendar: usually I choose to fly to Madrid in January for 3-4 days because Spanish winter is not as harsh as most other countries in Europe and it is great to spend a few days in the bright winter sun.
The shopping trip usually takes place as soon as I get off the plane at Madrid's Barajas Airport. It takes about 40 minutes from the airport to Madrid's prime shopping district - Calle Serrano and Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset - by subway.  I always try to find affordable accommodation near Calle Serrano so that I don't have to waste too much time on public transport to and fro from the hotel.
First Stop: Corner of Calle Serrano and Calle Goya
Walk towards the direction of Puerta de Alcala (Retiro Park). En route on the left-hand side is the flagship store of one of my favourite leather goods brand - LOEWE. There are 2 stores on Calle Serrano, one for the men and one for the ladies. The Lady's store is located at the corner of c/Serrano and c/ Jorge Juan.
LOEWE is one of the most famous (and expensive) leather goods manufacturers in the world and a leather handbag usually starts at around 700 euros. During sales, you might be able to get some colours and models for about half the price. They have beautiful handbags, shoes and more leather accessories, but prices are usually extremely steep. Be prepared to diet on bread and butter for a few months unless you have a lot of ready cash in your bank account.
(On the way to LOEWE, you will pass distinguish brand names and fashion houses such as YSL, La Perla, but since these brand do not really interest me, I just stop and have a look at their windows instead of going inside.)
After LOEWE, cross c/ Jorge Juan and continue till the corner of c/ Serrano and c/ Villanueva. where the store of CAROLINA HERRERA stands. CH is a New-York based designer of Chilean origin and she designs very pretty handbags and jeans. The thing which interests me most about CH is, you don't find them elsewhere in Europe outside Spain and Portugal. And I love designer goods that you don't find elsewhere. The prices of CAROLINA HERRERA are slightly more affordable than those of LOEWE.
If you like Italian designer brands such as DIESEL and ARMANI COLLEZIONI, crosss c/Villanueva and you shall see them appearing on your left hand side. I used to shop regularly at Armani Collezioni until I get fed up of sending my sweaters or tops to drycleaners after wearing them for just a few hours.
Which is what brings me to my next shopping stop on C/ Serrano: the irreistable MAX MARA - they have been my favourite designer label for several years now. Actually I can't recall when or how I come across Max Mara women's wear for the first time, but a visit to Max Mara is the absolute must on every shopping pilgrimage of mine.
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Main entrance of Jardin de Serrano, a high-end shopping centre, on C/ Goya.
From C/Serrano towards the direction of C/ Jose Ortega and Gasset
This is a long walk and will involve at least 5 shopping stops en route. Be careful you take a rest every 30 minutes or so.
From CAROLINA HERRERA, walk back towards C/ Goya, stopping en route at PURIFICATION GARCIA (next to La Perla store on C/ Serrano). PG is a Spanish designer brand selling fashionable women's wear at affordable prices (I would call it a up-market ZARA). They are very well-known within Spain but not so famous in other countries. Although their designers target younger customers, sometimes you do find decent things in their stores. Worth having a look since you are already there.
Cross the street at C/Goya and on your right, you will see the famous Italian leather good brand - SALVATORE FERRAGAMO. They have beautiful leather goods, shoes and handbags (of course), also nice womens' pret-a-porter but prices are not cheap. Right next door is my all-time favourite - MAX MARA. As soon as I set foot in this store, I will not come out empty handed. They are most famous for elegant women's winter coats, tops, knitwears and jackets.
After MAX MARA, cross C/Serrano and on the corner of C/Serrano and C/Hermosilia is BALLY, my favourite shoes and handbag manufacturer from Switzerland. Strange enough, BALLY's shoes are the only brand that my feet feel comfortable in, thus every year provisions have to be made for new BALLY shoes.
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LUNCH STOP!
By the time I come out from BALLY, it is well past 1 in the afternoon and it is time for lunch. Walk past C/Ayala and there is a Starbucks cafe and a VIPS/Rodilla coffe and snack shop on the left-hand side. This is where I usually stop for lunch - I need a shot of Caramel Frappucino from Starbuck to ease the aching feet. Starbucks in Spain also offer a good selection of salad bowls, sandwiches and cakes.
(For those of you who are in love with high heels of Manolo Blahnik, there is a shop in a small one-way street just off on the opposite side of Calle Serrano, right across from VIPS).
After lunch, Spain's numero uno department store 'El Corte Ingles' awaits right in front of me. This one on C/Serrano is a good place for those who are short of time yet still want to indulge themselves in some luxury goods shopping experience. Inside the store you will find many brandnames: Burberry, Ferragamo, Celine, Carolina Herrera, Gucci, Prada, Furla, Escada, Boss ..... etc., plus many local designer names such as Tintoretto (this Spanish fashion brand offers wonderful winter jackets and very chic women's wear at very reasonable prices), Purification Garcia, Adolfo Dominguez, Tous, Pepe Gonzalez & & &. The selections available could be quite different than those found in the flagship stores, thus it is worthwhile going around each storey and try your luck.
During sales, El Corte Ingles will be full of people thus it is advisable that you arrive early in the morning to avoid long queues at changing rooms or cashiers.
If you are looking for expensive jewellery or diamond studded watches from Bulgari, Chopard, their stores are just 20m away from El Corte Ingles.

Sales - Rebajas in Spanish - at El Corte Ingles. The sight of this poster alone will send my pulse racing...

ABC Serrano Centro Commcercial - a high-end shopping centre on C/Serrano, a few hundred meters away from El Corte Ingles on C/ Serrano. Fashionable high-street brands and Spanish designer labels all can be found under one roof.
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Fourth Stop: turn right onto C/Jose Ortega y Gasset
For those of you who have expensive taste and love expensive stuffs produced by the likes of Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Chanel, Escada, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Versace, Valentino, Cartier etc., make sure you turn right onto the exclusive shopping and residential avenue of Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset, a street named after the Spanish philosopher. You don't need to have a PhD in philosophy in order to shop on this street, just make sure you have several credit cards with you.

C/ Jose Ortega y Gasset - it might not look glamourous at the first sight, but this street has some of the most expensive boutiques in the whole of Spain.
Given that I have neither the financial strength nor the figure to wear anything from the above Haute-Couture fashion houses, I will skip all of the above and head straight to the one and only store that really interests me: tucked away in a small side street off C/J.Ortega y Gasset is Furla, the Italian leather goods maker from Bologna which offers arguably some very chic bags and accessories at very decent prices.
After the busy few hours contributing to the growth of the Spanish economy, sit down at the Starbucks cafe on Ortega y Gasset, have a drink and enjoy the view of handsome Spaniards and elegantly dressed Spanish ladies in this chic part of the city.
Copyright 2008. Text by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.