M40間諜米格魯的秘密日誌

After the overtly commercialised tourist haunt called Goreme in Cappadocia, it is such a welcoming relief to be here in Egirdir and to know that not all Turks think of tourists as nothing but a walking ATM.

The bus from the ancient city of Konya to Egirdir took about 3.5 hours, passing through some stunning sceneries: snow-capped mountain passes, green pine forests, fertile orchards and farmlands, then the serene view of Turkey's Lake Districts. If this were somewhere in Western Europe or Switzerland, I am sure the shores would be filled with thousands of luxury hotels, posh cafes, restaurants, and boutiques; but this being Turkey and Egirdir being a place still outside of ordinary tourist's or budget backpackers' radar (thank God for that!!!), the place retains the charm and peacefulness of a quaint little lakeside town. Prices are affordable, and level of service provided are good. Most important of all, the hospitality and friendliness expressed by local residents to foreign visitors are genuine, unlike in Goreme or Sultanahmet in Istanbul, where people greet you because they are trying to sell you something. (OK this might sound harsh, but it's not too far away from the truth...)

The town of Egirdir is well-known amongTurks for good seafood, especially fish. Local residents still go out to the lake with their small fishing boats and fish for themselves and for the restaurants that lined the island of Yesilada (Turkish: Green Island).

It was winter when I visited Egirdir, and most of the pensions and hotels on Yesilada are closed. In order to experience the real atmosphere of this little lakeside town, it is advisable to stay near the bus station in the town centre, where most shops and restaurants frequented by locals are located. Almost all eateries on Yesilada are meant for tourists, which means there is nothing going on after dark or during the off-season; whereas shops and restaurants in the nearby town centre remain open throughout the year. You get to feel how life is really like in Egirdir.

Quite street on Yesilada. The place is so quiet in winter, it feels like a deserted village.

Snow-capped mountains on the western shore of Lake Egirdir. (Thank God this place has not been corrupted by budget tourism and all its associated evils yet; I cannot bear to think how this town would be like if I were to see dozens of cheap  backpacker hostels in Egirdir... for God's sake, I hope the hordes of backpackers running around Turkey continue to ignore this place.)

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Recommended restaurant: Sonmez (Located right opposite the Mosque in the town centre; good grilled meat dishes, turkish pizzas, kebabs etc.)

Hotel I stayed at: Apostel Hotel.10m from the bus station in the town centre, with rooms directly facing the eastern shore of Lake Egirdir. The hotel is clean and offers great view of the lake. Friendly owners who speak a little English. Single room en suite with shower and toilet, free WiFi internet connection in room, TV, telephone, breakfast costs 35 YTL. The breakfast is a bit simple (typically Turkish breakfast, nothing fancy) but the view from the breakfast room over the Lake is stunning.

Copyrights 2009. All photos and text by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.