Walking on the streets of Bozcaada reminds me of Lemnos (Limnos), the Greek island not too far away west of Bozcaada. Both places have a very typical North Aegean flaire, with wind swept cliffs, rocky pebble beaches, brightly coloured houses and a very wild, rugged landscape.
I love the stark sense of contrast and solitude as expressed by this photo.
A while ago there were talks of a direct sea link using passenger ferries between Bozcaada and Mytilini, Lesbos, but the plan fell through at the last minute, because the Turks refused to open up Bozcaada for international traffic, citing the lack of customs facilities at the little harbour. Unconvincing as the excuse was, it was evident to anyone with some knowledge of the troublesome not-so-distant history between Greece and Turkey that any direct sea traffic between Bozcaada and Greek territory would bring back problematic memories of events in the 1920s.
Because of Bozcaada's strategic location right at the middle of the Dardanelles, it has been fought over by great powers over the centuries: between the Byzantines and the Venetians, the Venetians and the Genovians, the Ottomans, the Russians, the Greeks and the Turks... I did not know that Bozcaada was briefly occupied by the Russians during the Russo-Turkish War in the 1830s.
It was so quiet on the streets because tourists from nearby Canakkale and Istanbul only visit the island on weekends. I was there during the week, thus I had the whole town to myself.
There are many nice outdoor cafes where you can have a decent meal and good coffee at decent prices.
I like the sign written on the window of this cafe: 'Life is a Cabernet'.... (It would taste better if it had said 'Life is a Pinot Noir'...)
Every morning, farmers from all over Bozcaada would set up stalls at the open air market near the harbour and the town square.
Colourful little fishing boats and the Venetian Castle in the background. Along the harbour front are many nice fish taverns and restaurants serving fresh catch of the day. You choose your own fish and have it weighed and prepared for you right on the spot.
Everday there are 4 - 5 ferries connecting Bozcaada to mainland Turkey. Trucks and cars quickly fill up the available space on the car deck, while foot passengers are seated on the upper decks.
As the ferry arrives at Geyikli port, there will be mini-buses to Canakkale or Ezine waiting at the harbour. An one hour ride through the countryside to Canakkale city centre costs about 6YTL in September 2007. From Ezine otogar, regular mini-buses to Geyikli harbour cost about 3.5YTL in 2007.
Harbour at Geyikli, taken from the ferry boat to Bozcaada. There is only one settlement on the whole island of Bozcaada, i.e. Bozcaada town centre.
How to go: Nearest airport is at Canakkale.
By Bus: from Canakkale or Ezine, there are frequent mini-buses that arrive at Geyikli harbour in accordance to the departure time of ferryboats to Bozcaada. Last one departs Geyikli at around 1630.
A return trip from Geyikli to Bozcaada costs about 3.50YTL in 2007.
Copyright 2008. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
I love the stark sense of contrast and solitude as expressed by this photo.
A while ago there were talks of a direct sea link using passenger ferries between Bozcaada and Mytilini, Lesbos, but the plan fell through at the last minute, because the Turks refused to open up Bozcaada for international traffic, citing the lack of customs facilities at the little harbour. Unconvincing as the excuse was, it was evident to anyone with some knowledge of the troublesome not-so-distant history between Greece and Turkey that any direct sea traffic between Bozcaada and Greek territory would bring back problematic memories of events in the 1920s.
Because of Bozcaada's strategic location right at the middle of the Dardanelles, it has been fought over by great powers over the centuries: between the Byzantines and the Venetians, the Venetians and the Genovians, the Ottomans, the Russians, the Greeks and the Turks... I did not know that Bozcaada was briefly occupied by the Russians during the Russo-Turkish War in the 1830s.
It was so quiet on the streets because tourists from nearby Canakkale and Istanbul only visit the island on weekends. I was there during the week, thus I had the whole town to myself.
There are many nice outdoor cafes where you can have a decent meal and good coffee at decent prices.
I like the sign written on the window of this cafe: 'Life is a Cabernet'.... (It would taste better if it had said 'Life is a Pinot Noir'...)
Every morning, farmers from all over Bozcaada would set up stalls at the open air market near the harbour and the town square.
Colourful little fishing boats and the Venetian Castle in the background. Along the harbour front are many nice fish taverns and restaurants serving fresh catch of the day. You choose your own fish and have it weighed and prepared for you right on the spot.
Everday there are 4 - 5 ferries connecting Bozcaada to mainland Turkey. Trucks and cars quickly fill up the available space on the car deck, while foot passengers are seated on the upper decks.
As the ferry arrives at Geyikli port, there will be mini-buses to Canakkale or Ezine waiting at the harbour. An one hour ride through the countryside to Canakkale city centre costs about 6YTL in September 2007. From Ezine otogar, regular mini-buses to Geyikli harbour cost about 3.5YTL in 2007.
Harbour at Geyikli, taken from the ferry boat to Bozcaada. There is only one settlement on the whole island of Bozcaada, i.e. Bozcaada town centre.
How to go: Nearest airport is at Canakkale.
By Bus: from Canakkale or Ezine, there are frequent mini-buses that arrive at Geyikli harbour in accordance to the departure time of ferryboats to Bozcaada. Last one departs Geyikli at around 1630.
A return trip from Geyikli to Bozcaada costs about 3.50YTL in 2007.
Copyright 2008. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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自助旅行實用資訊: 交通資訊 Transportation: Tips and Advice (1)