The Aegean town of Ayvalik and the surrounding villages are known for their excellent olives. The region around Ayvalik is one of the biggest centres of production in Turkey of top-grade olive oil.  But the town also has a long history, an interesting heritage, and is a popular seaside resort for Turkish tourists.

The harbour front of Ayvalik: this part of Aegean is very windy, even in the summer. There are direct ferry services to and from Mytilini, capital of the Greek island of Lesbos. However, schedules are prone to change and/or cancellations due to strong winds and rough seas, even in the summer. There are also direct ferry services 2-3 times a week from Mytilini to two other Turkish ports: Dikili (south of Ayvalik) and Foca (near Aliaga and Izmir).

Like so many other towns and villages on the Turkish Aegean coast, Ayvalik used to be a predominatly Greek-speaking town, before the enforced population exchange of 1923 changed the lingustic landscape of the region. While Greek-speakers were resettled on other Aegean islands, Turkish residents of northern Greece (near present-day Thessaloniki and the Greek province of Macedonia) moved to Ayvalik. Thus it is not uncommon to hear Greek spoken on the streets, even though the speakers are ethnic Turkish Muslims.
Many city dwellers from Istanbul visit Ayvalik on weekends to enjoy fresh seafood and run away from the bustling life in a big city.

A former Greek Orthodox church that was converted into a mosque in the aftermath of 1923. Many of Ayvalik's buildings date from the Greek period. However, a large number of old houses are not occupied when their Greek owners left, and are in a state of disrepair. It was such a shame to see many otherwise fine examples of Greek farmhouses and mansions almost crumbling to pieces.
Even the streets of Ayvalik (and those of nearby villages) are in need of some maintenance work. While I was there, the majority of the streets were dug out because of some construction work, and everything became dusty. Fortunately the town is located near the sea and the inhabitants could seek refuge at the waterfront.

         A old house in the centre of Ayvalik with a 'for sale' sign posted on the front door.

                    A local fish restaurant and cafe on the harbour front of Ayvalik

Copyrights 2008. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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